Best motorcycle helmet under £200 | How to choose in 2022

John Milbank, BikeSocial Consumer Editor

By John Milbank

Consumer Editor of Bennetts BikeSocial, John's owned over 20 bikes, has been testing motorcycle kit for more than 25 years and is a member of the International Association of Auto Theft Investigators, and part of the Motorcycle Crime Reduction Group.

Posted 06/07/2022 13:35 UK

Choosing the best motorcycle helmet when you have a budget under £200 can be tricky as there’s a huge range out there from most of the leading brands. But safety standards mean that, with a little research, you can buy a motorbike lid that’s proven to pass the same protective tests as the most expensive out there.

In this article, I’m going to take you through all you should consider when choosing, then share some of the hottest products on the market. It doesn’t matter whether you’re a new rider, or experienced, this is your guide to the more affordable bike helmets in 2022…

Open-face, full-face or flip-front

You first need to decide what type of helmet you want. An open-face lid (sometimes called a ‘jet’ or a ‘piss-pot’!) has no face protection, though might include a visor. Scooter riders, and those with retro-styled and classic bikes often love them, but you’ll need a pair of googles too. You might find a drop-down visor built in, but at speeds over about 40-50mph, the wind usually whips up underneath and makes your eyes water.

Some helmets have a lightweight plastic face-guard built into the lid, which is usually removable. Check the label inside or on the strap to see if it has just a ‘J’ on it, that means the helmet is only tested as a ‘Jet’ lid, so the face guard doesn’t offer any protection beyond flies and stones.

A ‘P’ on the label means the helmet has been tested a ‘Protective’ full-face helmet, and these are what most riders choose. If you do have an accident, your face is protected by the lid as much as the rest of your head.

Finally, we have flip-front helmets (sometimes called ‘modular’ or ‘system’ lids); these have a chin-guard that can be pulled up to the top of the helmet, or even flipped right over the back. They’re great for getting some extra air when riding, for talking to people, and for getting fuel. They’re a great option for everyone from tourers to couriers. Look for both a ‘P’ and a ‘J’ on the label’; the ‘P’ is the most important one as it proves the front is protective, while the ‘J’ means it’s approved for use with the chin guard pulled open (some non-P&J flip lids can drop shut as you ride, blocking your vision!).

This flip-front lid is certified as P and J

ECE 22.05 vs ECE 22.06: which is safest?

All helmets sold in the UK and Europe must, legally, be approved to ECE 22.05. They can include DOT and SNELL as well, but ECE 22.05 is essential. Technically, a helmet can also be certified to BS 6658:1985, or a ‘European Economic Area member standard offering at least the same safety and protection as BS 6658:1985, and carry a mark equivalent to the BSI Kitemark.’ But this is such an old standard that you shouldn’t find any helmets like this so I’d recommend you avoid them, not least because helmets are only really meant to last five years. Look for ECE 22.05, or the new ECE 22.06 standard…

From January 2024, all new helmets will have to be certified to ECE 220.6, which has a much tougher set of tests, including an ‘oblique’ impact, which measures the rotational forces transmitted to the brain when the helmet hits a 45° anvil.

The new standard will likely mean some lids disappear from the market, and there could be some deals to be had, but if you want the provably safest, look for ECE 22.06 on the label.

Some brands will claim their helmets far exceed a safety standard, and while using complex materials and clever design may well mean that’s true, there’s no real way of knowing how safe a lid is, beyond the minimum standards set out in the tests.

Some helmets will carry an ACU Gold sticker, which means the Auto Cycle Union – the governing body for racing in the UK – has approved it for track use. No extra tests are carried out for this, and not all lids that are ACU-approved have the sticker (you’ll need to check with the retailer if it is on the approved list). It’s only worth thinking about if you’re going to ride on track.

Polycarbonate, carbon-fibre or fibreglass?

Multi-fibre, or composite fibre shells that use various combinations of fibreglass, carbon fibre and aramid fibres in resin tend to be at the higher end of the market in motorcycle helmets, whereas the more-budget-friendly lids often use ABS / polycarbonate / plastic shells.

There are two schools of thought here, but the theory behind a tougher composite outer shell, rather than more flexible plastic, is that it will glance off in an impact more readily, and distribute energy across it before it transferring into the softer, more compressible polystyrene inner.

All we can know for sure is the standards achieved during testing, and over the next couple of years ECE 22.06 will really highlight where manufacturers have made a provably safe helmet thanks to the more stringent tests.

That polystyrene inner, also known as an EPS liner (expanded polystyrene) is sometimes available in multi-density, which means there are softer areas where necessary for maximum comfort and safety, rather than cutting out deep channels to act as ‘crumple zones.’

The newest helmets will be certified to ECE 22.06

Getting the right fit

The right fit is absolutely essential in any helmet, regardless of price or style; too big and it’s not going to protect you properly, while any pressure points will soon become extremely painful.

Speaking to dealers and manufacturers indicates that as many as 75% of riders have a helmet that’s too big for them, so don’t be afraid to ask for advice; shop staff should be trained by the major brands to help you get the right fit, so take your time and get something that works for you.

If you’re buying online, I strongly recommend you use reputable motorcycle kit dealers based in the UK, as you’ll get proper support when you need it. I’d avoid marketplaces like Amazon and eBay, and also be aware that some European sellers use .co.uk web addresses and even UK phone numbers. Dig a little deeper to check where the shops are based, as while they might be able to offer returns, you could be liable for import duty, might have to pay to send anything back that you buy and, most importantly, the UK distributors won’t be able to support you if needed.

Some of the leading helmet brands’ UK distributors provide a custom fit service when needed as they have the tools and experience to be able to refine a lid to make it absolutely perfect for your head. 99% of riders will never need it, but if you are struggling, check with the store where you’re buying from, to see if this is possible.

Here are the simple steps to getting the right fit when you buy a motorcycle helmet:

Don’t take the visor sticker off; it’s your proof that you haven’t ridden in the helmet, which would stop you being able to return it.
The lid should pop over your head, not just drop straight on. Any helmet will give over time, but none will get tighter!
Expect your cheeks to be slightly pushed in, like a hamster. Try opening and closing your mouth and your teeth should gently bite the insides of your cheeks. Race helmets will be tighter here as they’re designed to move less at high speeds.
Hold the sides of the helmet with your palms, then attempt to move your head left and right, and back and forth; there should only be the tiniest of movement, if anything.
Feel for any pressure points; the lid should hug evenly all around your head. Leave it on for at least ten minutes… if any areas start to feel uncomfortable, they could be agony later on, so choose something else.
Don’t expect helmets from the same brand to have the same fit, or even the new version of one you’ve had before. Trying any helmet on before you commit to buying is absolutely vital.

Many helmets are built in a variety of shells sizes, which means the outer shell might be one size for S-L, for instance, then a bigger one for XL-XXXL. This means someone with a small head doesn’t have to wear a massive lid, so the more shell sizes across the head size range, the better.

What type of fastener should you look for?

The traditional helmet fastener is a ‘Double-D’ ring. It can be a little awkward for new riders, and you’ll struggle with gloves on, but it guarantees a secure fit every time.

In the old days, you might have found a seatbelt style clip, but these didn’t allow easy adjustment once set, so riders often ended up with straps that weren’t tight enough.

The new ‘micrometric’ fasteners have a length of ratchet that’s secure, easy to use even with gloves on, and they give some adjustability every time.

You might also find a new magnetic ‘Fidlock’ fastener, which snaps shut with the help of magnets. It’s slightly easier to use with gloves on than a Double-D, but it has no easy adjustability once set, so is no better than the old seatbelt clips.

Double-D or micrometric fastener… they both offer good security

Things to check with the visor

Checking a visor’s tricky with a big sticker over it, so do read as many helmet reviews as possible to ensure there’s no distortion through, that the up and down field of view is good, and that peripheral vision isn’t impaired. Fortunately, the ECE helmet tests give a minimum level of visibility, so you shouldn’t have any major issues.

Helmets at the cheaper end of the market might not include a ‘Pinlock’, which is a second layer of plastic with a silicone bead that clips inside the visor to reduce fogging. These do work well, though they’re available in different levels: 30, 70 and 120. The higher the number, the longer they’ll resist fogging. There’s also ‘Evo’, which is the same performance as 120, and ‘Max Vision’, which is larger and fits into a recess in the visor for less noticeable edges.

If you never ride in cold or wet weather, it’s less of a concern, but otherwise it’s worth having one included as they cost an extra £20-£30 (assuming the visor has the pins to take it – some don’t).

Some visors have an anti-fog coating, but you have to be careful when cleaning it, and it’s generally not as effective as a Pinlock.

Some visors are ‘class A’ or ‘class 1’, which should mean they offer the best clarity with little to no distortion, and be sure to check how easy any visor is to remove and refit for cleaning.

Many helmets now include a drop-down sunshield, which can really help on sunny days or those awkward low-sun autumn evenings. Check that there’s not too big a gap at the bottom for distracting bright light, but also that the shield doesn’t crash into your nose!

How to know a helmet will vent well

Knowing how well a helmet’s ventilation works is tricky without using it, so be sure to check all our helmet reviews. Look for vents that are easy to operate with gloves on, and that have a clear path through the lid, into the helmet. Channels cut into the lining can help air move around, though the deeper ones are also there as a cheaper way of making the polystyrene compress more easily in an impact.

Choosing a quiet motorcycle helmet

Again, our helmet reviews will help here, but it’s important to understand that noise is greatly affected by the bike. While some lids are tested in a wind tunnel, it’s on an unfaired motorcycle; it’s actually the screen and fairing that cause the buffeting that can create the most noise when riding.

If you ride at more than about 40mph, you should wear earplugs… here’s why.

Two AGV helmets under £200

AGV K1 | Price: From £139.99 | Safety standard: ECE 22.05

Best motorcycle helmet under £200 | How to choose in 2022

Open-face, full-face or flip-front

ECE 22.05 vs ECE 22.06: which is safest?

Polycarbonate, carbon-fibre or fibreglass?

Getting the right fit

What type of fastener should you look for?

Things to check with the visor

How to know a helmet will vent well

Choosing a quiet motorcycle helmet

Two AGV helmets under £200

Three Bell helmets under £200

Three Caberg helmets under £200

Three Dexter helmets under £200

Three HJC helmets under £200

Three LS2 helmets under £200

Three MT helmets under £200

Two Nexx helmets under £200

Two Nolan helmets under £200

Three Scorpion helmets under £200

Three Spada helmets under £200

Three Shark helmets under £200

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